Models showcased designs from Valentino’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection during a runway show in Paris on Sunday, October 5, 2025. AP Photo
Fashion designer Alessandro Michele presented his latest Valentino collection on Sunday at Paris Fashion Week, revealing a more refined approach than his previous, more extravagant designs. Under flickering strobe lights, Michele offered a nod to 1970s glamour with soft silhouettes, velvet skirts, and carefully placed bows. The show felt nostalgic yet modern, focusing on style over spectacle.
The highlight of the evening came in the form of a gold draped gown adorned with a white feathered collar, recalling both ancient myths and Valentino’s Roman roots. Michele also added playful touches with a polka-dot blouse, bright yellow satin panels, and moments of colourblocking, which gave the collection a subtle vibrancy without overwhelming the eye.
While Michele has built his reputation on lavish creativity and maximalism, this time he chose simplicity. The designs carried his signature flair but in a restrained, polished form.
A Change in Direction
Michele, known for his imaginative and often theatrical style, made a clear shift toward cleaner lines and sharper tailoring. His earlier work at Valentino—and before that, at Gucci—was famous for its dramatic layers, ruffles, and elaborate accessories. Sunday’s presentation showed a designer learning to edit himself, focusing more on wearability and less on sheer extravagance.
The result was elegant and sophisticated, though less startling than his past collections. It reflected a designer in transition, balancing creativity with practicality.
Valentino’s Storied Legacy
Founded by Valentino Garavani, the brand built its legacy on luxury and timeless elegance, symbolized by the signature “Valentino red.” Later, under Pierpaolo Piccioli, the house leaned into haute couture precision and refinement.
Michele brings a different energy. His style blends nostalgia, gender-fluid fashion, and a fascination with history. He once said his goal was to “manipulate the past to make it now,” a mission he continues to explore by merging classic design with fresh ideas.
However, Valentino, like other luxury houses, faces a challenging market. Reports show that 2024 revenues fell by about 3 per cent to $1.42 billion, adding pressure for Michele to create collections that connect with both critics and shoppers.
A Balance Between Fantasy and Function
In his earlier Valentino shows, Michele filled the runway with opulent details—bows, tassels, ruffles, and even elaborate turbans. The January couture collection pushed boundaries with old Hollywood influences, lavish Roman imagery, and intricate crinolines. The results were visually stunning but risked feeling like costume.
Recently, Michele has worked to ground Valentino’s vision in everyday wear. Pieces like tweed pants, faux-fur jackets, V-neck sweaters, and even a Vans collaboration show his effort to mix practicality with artistry. Yet, the challenge remains: finding harmony between the spectacular and the wearable.
This latest collection leaned toward caution. Michele’s love of contrast and creativity remained intact, but expressed in a softer voice. It wasn’t about shock or excess—it was about refinement and confidence. The result was a quieter, thoughtful chapter in Valentino’s evolving story.
