The tartan known as "Glen Affric" has its origins in the period between 1500 and 1600, according to information provided by Alan Richardson from the House of Edgar, as featured in V&A/PA.
In a collaborative effort, textile designers and tartan specialists in the United Kingdom have joined forces to resurrect the oldest known piece of Scottish tartan, allowing enthusiasts of this iconic plaid to embrace a tangible piece of history. Carbon dating conducted by scientists has revealed that the fabric, named "Glen Affric," hails from the period between 1500 and 1600. This significant finding designates it as the oldest example of "true tartan" in Scotland, predating the development of known clan tartans in the early 19th century.
Unearthed from a peat bog in the Highlands during forestry work and subsequently donated to the Scottish Tartans Authority in the 1980s, the Glen Affric fabric, despite being stained by peat, exhibited distinctive features. Analysis by experts uncovered green and brown or black stripes layered on one or two base colours. Further examination through dye analysis on eight samples revealed additional colours, including red and yellow.
Taking inspiration from the ancient textile, the pattern has been faithfully recreated for contemporary wear by the House of Edgar, a renowned tartan fabric creator and weaver. Collaborating with experts from the Scottish Tartans Authority, responsible for preserving and promoting the heritage, history, and development of tartan, the House of Edgar utilized the dye analysis and original pattern to integrate suitable shades into their modern palette.
Peter Eslea MacDonald, the head of research and collections at the Scottish Tartans Authority, emphasized the joint effort to maintain the authenticity of the pattern and colours while adapting them to suit contemporary tastes. Describing the original fabric as a probable status symbol, MacDonald speculated that it may have belonged to a person of importance, possibly a woman or a gentleman of rank, and was likely worn as a shawl or upper body wrap.
Emma Wilkinson, a designer at the House of Edgar, expressed her gratitude for the opportunity to collaborate with experts in recreating the historic tartan. The recreated Glen Affric tartan will be available for purchase as part of the House of Edgar's new collection, "The Seventeen Eighty-Three Collection." Wilkinson encouraged those interested in experiencing the Glen Affric recreation firsthand or acquiring garments in this tartan to contact local kiltmakers, as many kilt shops worldwide are expected to offer it.
