A couple wearing traditional Fair Isle pattern sweaters aboard a boat in the Shetland Islands, Scotland, June 1970. CNN
The Fair Isle sweater, a timeless fashion staple, continues to captivate the world. This cozy, colorful knit has evolved from a practical workwear piece into a high-fashion item beloved by the royal family, celebrities like Jennifer Lopez, and even the latest runway designers. Despite its long history, the Fair Isle sweater remains relevant, appearing on runways and street style alike, especially as winter approaches.
Originating from Fair Isle, a small island in the Shetland archipelago off the coast of Scotland, this unique knitting technique dates back to the 18th century. Initially, the design was used in fisherman’s hats to provide warmth and visibility at sea. The traditional pattern, made with two strands of yarn, was not only functional but visually striking. The distinctive geometric “OXO” pattern, which alternates between circular “O” shapes and “X” shapes, became a signature of the style. The palette of colors used, including red, blue, yellow, and brown, was chosen for its practicality—brighter colors helped fishermen be seen from a distance.
Actor Adam Brody wore a festive version of the classic sweater on the cover of Stylist magazine. Stylist Magazine
The technique gradually spread beyond its humble beginnings. By the 19th century, the colorful hats worn by fishermen became souvenirs for tourists visiting Shetland, particularly from Norway and the Netherlands. This tourist demand spurred the production of other garments, including scarves, stockings, and eventually, sweaters. As the trend gained popularity, the Fair Isle design began to make its way into the mainstream.
Last December, Hailey Bieber was seen wearing a camel and blue Fair Isle-style sweater while out in Los Angeles. CNN
In the 1920s, the design became associated with British royalty when Prince Edward was photographed wearing a Fair Isle sweater. This helped solidify the pattern’s place in fashionable wardrobes. By the mid-20th century, the Fair Isle sweater had become a symbol of family and tradition. Mothers in the UK would knit matching sweaters for their families, using leftover yarn to create coordinated outfits for parents and children alike. This visual of togetherness and warmth remains part of the sweater’s charm today.
Even celebrities like Jennifer Lopez, pictured with Ben Affleck leaving the Winter Garden Theatre in New York in 2022, are big fans of the Fair Isle style. Getty Images
In the modern fashion world, the Fair Isle knit has been embraced by luxury brands such as Ralph Lauren, Chanel, Balenciaga, and Versace, who have incorporated the design into their collections. Designers like London’s Molly Goddard have even made Fair Isle an unofficial signature, pairing it with delicate fabrics like tulle to create a contrast of rustic charm and modern elegance. Celebrities like Hailey Bieber and Adam Brody have been spotted wearing the iconic knit, cementing its status as a must-have winter piece.
Designer Molly Goddard often includes Fair Isle knitwear in her collections at London Fashion Week. Getty Images
Despite its widespread appeal, the Fair Isle design hasn’t come without controversy. In 2015, Chanel faced backlash after it was revealed that the fashion house had copied designs from independent Shetland designer Mati Ventrillon. Chanel apologized and credited Ventrillon, recognizing the importance of respecting the craft’s heritage.
The Fair Isle design became popular for families, with children wearing smaller versions of the pattern that matched their parents' outfits, often made from leftover yarn. Getty Images
The craft of Fair Isle knitting, with its rich history and vibrant patterns, continues to thrive in Scotland. While some efforts have been made to trademark the technique, it remains difficult due to the widespread global production of Fair Isle-style garments. Today, Fair Isle knits are created worldwide, often using yarn from various regions, but the tradition and cultural significance of the design continue to be celebrated.
The Fair Isle sweater’s enduring popularity highlights its ability to bridge tradition and modernity. From its functional beginnings to its fashionable status today, the sweater remains a symbol of warmth, family, and timeless style.
