A model wearing a creation as part of the Dolce & Gabbana spring summer collection 2025, which was presented in Milan, Italy, on 21st Sept 2024. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)
Milan Fashion Week drew a star-studded crowd on its final major day of runway shows this Saturday, with fans flocking from venue to venue to catch glimpses of their favorite celebrities.
At Dolce & Gabbana, Madonna, Naomi Campbell, and Victoria De Angelis of Maneskin took front-row seats, while Maneskin's lead singer, Damiano David, made an appearance at Diesel, one of the season's most anticipated shows. Over at Bottega Veneta, Jacob Elordi watched the show from a bunny-shaped bean bag chair.
Here are some highlights from Saturday's Milan Fashion Week, featuring mostly womenswear collections for the upcoming spring and summer seasons.
Dolce & Gabbana Honors Madonna
Madonna attempted a low-key entrance to the Dolce & Gabbana show, concealed by a black veil. The runway collection paid tribute to her iconic 1990s style, celebrating the cone bra that became synonymous with her image during that era.
Models, sporting bleach-blonde wigs, strutted in signature Dolce & Gabbana corsets and tailored jackets, all featuring the distinctive cone bra. The collection, which the designers described as a homage to “an ironic and powerful female figure,” evoked Madonna’s bold and provocative persona.
Although Madonna wasn’t specifically named, the connection was unmistakable, harking back to the designers' collaboration with her on costumes for her 1993 Girlie Show tour. That tour coincided with the release of her "Erotica" album and the controversial "Sex" book.
The collection, titled “Italian Beauty,” captured the spirit of that time with cone bras peeking out from cropped jackets, garter belts paired with pencil skirts, and oversized cross earrings accentuating the looks. Floral prints in black, nude, red, and white added to the aesthetic, and the models strutted down the runway in sky-high heels.
After their final bow, designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana walked over to greet Madonna, who was still veiled in Chantilly lace and crowned with gold and crystals.
Bottega Veneta’s Playful Collection
Bottega Veneta’s collection, under creative director Matthieu Blazy, played with proportions and textures, creating a whimsical blend of reality and fantasy. Blazy emphasized the need for beauty, joy, and experimentation in fashion, likening it to an act of freedom.
The collection featured playful elements like a receptionist wearing a skirt with trousers on just one leg and a father carrying his daughter's colorful school bag. Blazy’s designs included details such as bunny ear-shaped collars and crinkled clothes that resembled a child’s outfit after a day of play.
Incorporating everyday items like plastic grocery bags, reimagined in nylon and leather, Blazy continued Bottega Veneta’s tradition of innovation. These faux plastic bags were paired with the brand’s signature woven bags, each designed with a specific purpose, like carrying a violin or a wine bottle.
Ferragamo Celebrates Movement
Ferragamo’s creative director Maximilian Davis drew inspiration from ballet, particularly the freedom of movement it embodies. The collection was influenced by archival images of brand founder Salvatore Ferragamo fitting shoes for African American ballet dancer Katherine Dunham.
Davis, who has Jamaican roots, found a connection between Ferragamo’s Italian heritage and his own background. The collection featured 1980s-inspired silhouettes with strong shoulders and oversized tailoring, paying tribute to Russian ballet star Rudolf Nureyev.
Flowing parachute dresses in silk nylon, suede, and organza captured the grace of ballet, while cashmere wraps and layered leotards further highlighted the dance influence. More daring pieces included denim shorts with frayed edges, reminiscent of a tutu.
Diesel’s Sustainable Denim
Diesel’s runway, set on a field of nearly 33,000 pounds of denim scraps, showcased the brand’s commitment to sustainability under creative director Glenn Martens. The collection featured innovative designs like shorts embroidered with long fringe and jeans lasered to appear distressed.
Martens emphasized the brand’s focus on circular production. The collection included pieces made from recycled cotton and leftover denim threads. After the show, the denim scraps scattered on the runway were set to be repurposed, underscoring Diesel's commitment to sustainability.
