Models showcase Willy Chavarria's menswear collection for Fall-Winter 2025 during Paris Fashion Week. Getty Images


January 29, 2025 Tags:

As Paris Men’s Fashion Week kicked off, the timing could not have been more significant. Just one day after the second inauguration of US President Donald Trump and amidst the rising strength of France’s populist right-wing politics, the runway saw more than just fresh fashion trends—it served as a platform for political statements and societal reflections. Designers showcased their ability to engage with the larger landscape of global issues such as inclusivity, protection, and freedom, using fashion as a stage to escape, reflect, and challenge the current climate.

The Paris-based brand EgonLab unveiled a collection that redefined traditional views of masculinity. Getty Images

Paris-based fashion house EgonLab was among those pushing boundaries. The label presented collections that defied traditional views of masculinity, sending powerful messages of unity and acceptance. This theme echoed throughout the week, from Willy Chavarria’s collection to the designs of Comme des Garçons Homme Plus, as the runways became platforms for inclusivity and progressive thought.

Junya Watanabe's Fall-Winter 2025 menswear collection showcased designs with tartan patterns. Getty Images

The collection also featured workwear styles inspired by forestry workers. Getty Images

Carole Boinet, the director of French cultural publication Les Inrockuptibles, explained, “When the French population feels increasingly powerless in the face of the government, fashion’s soft power, as an industry and an art, lies in its capacity to produce new discourses, images and impact other industries.” Fashion, it seems, had once again proven its ability to go beyond clothing and speak to wider societal themes.

Pharrell Williams, the men's creative director at Louis Vuitton, collaborated with his friend and designer Nigo to design stylish yet functional outfits. Getty Images

A standout theme on the runways was the resurgence of workwear, but with a twist. Designers reimagined this utilitarian style, fusing it with contemporary wardrobes. Junya Watanabe’s collection, for example, featured models in plaid shirts, raw denim, and lumberjack-inspired designs that seemed like a nostalgic nod to the 2010s hipster era. But Watanabe’s true inspiration lay in the classic workwear once worn by forestry workers, reflecting the season’s running themes of functionality and outdoor exploration.

Designer Chitose Abe from Sacai adopted a practical style for her collection, showcasing items created in collaboration with Carhartt. Getty Images

Louis Vuitton drew inspiration from the everyday outfits worn by gardeners, chefs, and engineers. Getty Images

At Louis Vuitton, Pharrell Williams and Nigo—two fashion giants in their own right—came together to present a collection that merged workwear with sportswear. Their designs were inspired by the wardrobes of engineers, chefs, and gardeners. The clothing ranged from a double-breasted indigo blue denim jacket to a striped box-cut ensemble, reflecting both practicality and elevated design.

Willy Chavarria drew from his Mexican-American heritage for his Fall-Winter 2025 collection. Getty Images

Sacai designer Chitose Abe took a more creative approach, blending utilitarian styles with her own distinctive vision. Her collection, which was co-branded with Carhartt, showcased oversized silhouettes and hybrid materials, such as dark brown leather jackets and green puffer jackets, combining a rugged aesthetic with comfort.

The Comme des Garçons Homme Plus show showcased clothing with military influences. Getty Images

As the week progressed, it became clear that many designers were using their platforms to voice social and political concerns. New York-based Willy Chavarria, marking the tenth anniversary of his eponymous label, used his Paris debut as an opportunity to convey a message of resilience and unity. His collection, rooted in his Mexican-American background, came in rich colors like gold, plum, and burgundy. Chavarria stated that the collection was “about human dignity and equality” and emphasized the importance of fighting for rights, particularly for marginalized groups like immigrants, LGBTQ+ individuals, and women.

Dior Homme’s Fall-Winter 2025 collection took inspiration from the iconic H-line, originally designed by the brand’s founder. Getty Images

Similarly, Paris-based EgonLab, helmed by Florentin Glémarec and Kevin Nompeix, focused on the struggles of disenfranchised communities worldwide. With playful Victorian-inspired designs, they challenged traditional gender norms while calling for unity in the fight against inequality.

The show also featured hats decorated with flowers, evoking the spirit of the 1960s and '70s flower power movement. Getty Images

War was another theme explored by designer Rei Kawakubo at Comme des Garçons Homme Plus. Her collection, aptly named "To Hell With War," deconstructed army staples such as khaki uniforms and combat boots. However, the collection wasn’t just about military aesthetics; the models wore helmets adorned with flowers, evoking the peace and love movement of the 1960s and ‘70s flower power protests.

Rick Owens played with different textures and methods in his designs. Getty Images

London-based designer Charles Jeffrey also used his platform to challenge societal norms. Drawing inspiration from Berlin’s Weimar Cabarets, Jeffrey’s designs pushed boundaries with homoerotic accessories and deconstructed garments, challenging the notion of gender in a world dominated by right-wing politics.

Some designers turned inward, exploring the subtle narratives embedded in the details of their garments. Dior’s collection drew from the H-line silhouette created by its founder, Christian Dior, in 1954. The models wore dramatic outfits, with their eyes covered, reminiscent of Stanley Kubrick’s Eyes Wide Shut, while the collection contrasted tight and loose volumes, offering a fresh take on the classic silhouette.

This led to jackets crafted from waxed leather and kemp fibers. Getty Images

Rick Owens, known for his radical approach to fashion, experimented with textures and materials. His collection included wax-drummed leather jackets and crusted jeans, made using bronze foil and wax, which gave the clothing an unconventional, almost otherworldly texture.

In a season marked by bold statements and striking designs, Paris Men’s Fashion Week once again proved that fashion is not just about clothing—it’s a powerful tool for social change and a platform for artistic expression.

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