A model showcasing Loui Vuitton Spring Summer 2025 collection in Paris, Tuesday, June 18, 2024. (Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)
With just over a month before the Paris Olympics, Louis Vuitton celebrated human diversity with a star-studded menswear showcase at UNESCO's Paris headquarters. Models in clothing reflecting various skin tones paraded around a giant globe on Vuitton's signature Damier check-patterned grass, creating a striking visual tribute to humanity.
Pharrell Williams, Vuitton’s menswear designer, described the show as a homage to humanity, drawing inspiration from the upcoming Summer Olympics. The collection featured a gradient of skin tones, symbolizing unity and diversity. It showcased checks in green, blue, and black, inspired by Air Afrique luggage designs, symbolizing diasporic creativity. Williams collaborated with creatives like Lamine Diaoune and Djiby Kebe to infuse the collection with a sense of global unity.
The show explored various archetypes, reflecting the U.N. cultural headquarters' diversity. The diplomat appeared in rich 1970s-style tailoring, the explorer in stylish outerwear, and the dandy in embellished jackets and coats. The collection's colors, shifting from dark to light tones, mirrored the diversity of the models and garments, featuring pixelated python skin patterns and world maps centered on Africa. The Damier pattern was reimagined with pale brown checks and multicolored accents, while soccer ball leather designs paid homage to the world’s favorite sport.
Details like enamel map-embedded buttons, subtle LV logos, and intricate embroidery added sophistication. Vintage-inspired designs featured oversized monograms and aged leather trims. The show, blending complexity with simplicity, focused on creating a spectacle rather than just displaying clothes. Among the stars in attendance were Alicia Vikander and Michael Fassbender.
Pharrell Williams reflected on the show’s theme of peace, noting that presenting the idea of unity poetically was the best they could do amid current global tensions.
In another highlight, Kenzo’s latest co-ed show by designer Nigo took place at Paris’ Palais Royal. Just over two years after becoming Kenzo’s first Japanese designer since founder Kenzo Takada, Nigo returned to the brand’s roots with a vibrant collection. Inspired by Henri Rousseau’s jungle paintings, Nigo incorporated these motifs into suit jackets and pants, blending Eastern and Western influences.
A standout moment was a stuffed tiger on a model’s shoulder, reinterpreting Rousseau’s work humorously. The collection featured urban vests with flower gemstone adornments, neon hoods, metallic net bags, and a sheath with an Asian garden scene. Nigo’s designs merged streetwear with luxury fashion, though questions about aesthetic finesse remain. Pharrell Williams gave Nigo a standing ovation, highlighting the ongoing issues of racism and diversity in the luxury industry.
Bianca Saunders’ spring collection showcased a boho thespian theme on a bricked runway. Known for her digital-first approach and inclusive designs, Saunders blended minimalism with cultural references. Pantomime-style boots and plimsoll shoes with eye-popping blue accents created a theatrical feel. A blue mesh onesie and cap added an urban touch, while a satin blue T-shirt highlighted Saunders’ innovative use of textures. Netted bobble hats, resembling East London shopping bags, emphasized her commitment to sustainability, using deadstock fabrics.
Saunders’ collection aligned with Loewe’s latest aesthetics but maintained her distinct identity through cultural references and innovation.
Undercover’s spring show by Jun Takahashi blended high fashion with streetwear, featuring crowns of golden thorns, sandals, and loose tunic-like jackets. The show, mixing ancient and modern elements, showcased Takahashi’s skill in hybridization. Loose, distressed silhouettes combined avant-garde with wearable fashion. Veils and lace adornments added an ethereal touch, evoking a spiritual journey. Hoods on tracksuits, reminiscent of Mary Magdalene, combined with hip-hop mystique, highlighting Takahashi’s diverse cultural inspirations. A pleated printed skirt celebrated nonbinary passion, emphasizing inclusivity in fashion.
