Tobias Zollo, the head brewmaster, serves beer at the Weihenstephan brewery in Freising, Germany, on Friday, September 20, 2024. AP Photo
At the world’s oldest brewery, Weihenstephan, head brewmaster Tobias Zollo has a surprising favourite: alcohol-free beer. While he admits he enjoys traditional beer more, he appreciates the alcohol-free option during work and lunch. He finds it to have a similar taste to regular beer but with fewer calories, thanks to the brewery's method of evaporating the alcohol.
"You can't drink beer every day — unfortunately," Zollo joked recently at the Bavarian brewery located in Freising, just north of Munich. His fondness for non-alcoholic beer is not unique; this beverage has seen a surge in popularity in recent years, coinciding with a decline in overall beer consumption.
Weihenstephan, established in 1040 by Benedictine monks, has embraced this trend. Alcohol-free wheat beer and lager now represent 10 percent of their total production. This growth reflects broader trends within Germany's beer industry, where more consumers are choosing non-alcoholic options.
Zollo expressed his concern for the declining beer consumption, saying, “The people are unfortunately — I have to say that as a brewer — unfortunately drinking less beer. If there’s an alternative to have the crisp and fresh taste from a typical Weihenstephan beer, but just as a non-alcoholic version, we want to do that.”
Even during Oktoberfest, the world's largest beer festival, alcohol-free beer is making a significant appearance. Out of the 18 large tents at the festival, 16 offer non-alcoholic beer for the duration of the celebration. The price for a 1-litre mug of alcohol-free beer is similar to that of regular beer, costing between 13.60 and 15.30 euros (about $15.12 to $17.01). This way, attendees can enjoy the fest without worrying about a hangover.
“For people who don't like to drink alcohol and want to enjoy Oktoberfest as well, I think it's a good option,” said 24-year-old Mikael Caselitz from Munich. “Sometimes people feel like they have more fun with alcohol, which is not a good thing because you can also have fun without alcohol.” He also emphasized the supportive atmosphere, noting that “if you want to come and drink alcohol-free beer, nobody will judge you.”
This year marked a notable first for Munich: the opening of an alcohol-free beer garden named “Die Null,” meaning “the zero.” Located near the main train station, this venue offered non-alcoholic beers, mocktails, and other alcohol-free drinks throughout the summer, though it was set to close shortly before Oktoberfest began.
Walter König, managing director of the Society of Hop Research near Munich, mentioned the unique challenges brewers face in creating alcohol-free beer. To retain the distinct aroma that typical hops provide, brewers have had to develop special hop varieties specifically for non-alcoholic beer. “If brewers use the typical hops for alcohol-free beer, the distinct aroma gets lost when the alcohol is reduced during the brewing process,” he explained.
Despite these challenges, customer satisfaction remains the priority. König noted, “They only want to know that what they are tasting is as good as traditional beers with alcohol.” As the popularity of alcohol-free beer continues to grow, it seems that the beverage has found a place even in the heart of beer culture.
