Diesel unveiled its Fall-Winter 2025 collection in a setting featuring a massive graffiti installation, adding an urban and artistic touch to the showcase. CNN
This season at Milan Fashion Week, designers faced a big question—play it safe or take a chance? With the fashion industry in flux, many big brands opted for bold, risky designs, while others stuck to their signature styles.
At Prada, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons aimed to break traditional ideas of femininity. Their collection felt deliberately messy, with paperbag-waist skirts and faux fur coats making a statement. Simons explained, “Liberation comes with risk-taking—you cannot liberate if you don’t take risks.”
Donatella Versace drew inspiration from the brand’s signature symbols, including the Medusa, Barocco, and Greca, for the Fall-Winter 2025 collection. CNN
Versace dived into its heritage, pulling inspiration from the home of founder Gianni Versace. Donatella’s collection featured the brand’s famous Medusa, Barocco, and Greca symbols on puffball and 3D-printed A-line dresses. Though rumors swirled about a possible sale of Versace to another major fashion house, the brand declined to comment.
Sabato De Sarno, the former Gucci designer known for his signature red, opted for a green hue instead. Models walked down a runway designed in the shape of the Interlocking G logo. CNN
Tod’s creative director Matteo Tamburini focused on effortless elegance, while Emporio Armani played with risk through card-themed prints and embroidery. Giorgio Armani noted in his show notes, “Dressing is always about taking risks.”
Creative Consistency vs. Change
Some brands embraced consistency. Gucci, now without a creative director after Sabato de Sarno’s sudden departure, looked back on its history. The collection paid homage to past eras, from Tom Ford’s sleek suits to Alessandro Michele’s geek-chic style. The show notes emphasized Gucci as “a continuum of craft, taste, and culture.”
At Fendi, Silvia Venturini Fendi honored the brand’s centennial. Her grandsons opened the show’s entrance, symbolizing the brand’s long family legacy. “The best way to celebrate is to deliver a new collection,” she said.
At Dolce & Gabbana’s Fall-Winter 2025 show, models showcased a blend of elegance and confidence, dressed in adorned gowns and plush overcoats. CNN
Newcomers also made their mark. Lorenzo Serafini, in his first collection for Alberta Ferretti, blended romantic Grecian gowns with sharp tuxedo tailoring. Moschino’s Adrian Appiolaza toned down the eccentricity but still stayed true to the brand’s quirky identity. Max Mara’s Ian Griffiths found inspiration in the Brontë sisters, creating refined yet powerful cashmere coats and tailored silhouettes.
Fashion as Performance
Some designers took their presentations beyond just clothing. DSquared2 brought Grammy-winner Doechii to perform on the runway, alongside supermodel Naomi Campbell. Dolce & Gabbana took their show to the streets, with models walking straight from the runway into Milan’s cityscape.
Sportmax embraced a free-spirited style, featuring thigh-high boots and fringed coats. CNN
As Bottega Veneta awaited its new designer Louise Trotter’s debut, it hosted an intimate evening featuring legendary musician Patti Smith. Her performance, blending poetry and music, set a thoughtful tone for the brand’s future.
A Shifting Industry
Fashion’s fast-changing landscape has made big trends less dominant. While some similarities emerged—such as frayed seams, oversized bows, and bold shoulders—the overriding theme was uncertainty. Designers seemed to be searching for direction rather than defining one.
Diesel made a bold statement with models sporting eerie, wide-eyed looks and striking, vibrant outfits. CNN
Speaking at an industry event, Donatella Versace shared concerns about fashion’s creative struggles. She warned that when designers focus too much on commercial success, creativity suffers. “Fashion is creativity, and creativity is instinct,” she said.
Despite the turbulence, Milan Fashion Week proved one thing—whether through bold risks or classic styles, designers are pushing fashion forward in their own way.
