Bottles of Commandaria wine displayed on a table at the Karsera Winery in the Cypriot village of Doros on Friday. Feb 21, 2025. AP Photo.
Commandaria, the world’s oldest recorded wine, has a history dating back nearly 3,000 years. Ancient Greek poets Homer and Euripides praised its exceptional quality, and over the centuries, it has been a drink of kings and nobility. Despite its legendary past, this sweet Cypriot wine has struggled to gain global recognition.
Now, a new wave of micro-wineries on the Mediterranean island is working to revive the historic wine using traditional methods. With a renewed focus on quality and heritage, producers hope to reclaim Commandaria’s long-lost prestige.
A Wine Steeped in History
Commandaria Wine boasts an impressive past. In the 13th century, it reportedly won the world’s first known wine competition under French King Philippe Augustus. It was also served at the wedding feast of England’s King Richard the Lionheart in 1191 during his time in Cyprus. In the 14th century, London’s Mayor Henry Picard offered it to the rulers of England, France, Scotland, Denmark, and Cyprus at the renowned “Feast of the Five Kings.”
Originally called “nama” in ancient times, the wine was renamed by the Knights Hospitaller, who set up their headquarters in Cyprus during the Third Crusade. The name comes from their estate, the Grande Commanderie, which became known for its wine production. Later, during the Byzantine era, Cyprus’ Orthodox Church adopted Commandaria as its official communion wine.
The wine reached its peak during the Venetian rule in the 15th and 16th centuries when it was prized for its sweetness and rich aroma.
Unique Flavors and Traditional Craftsmanship
Commandaria’s distinct taste comes from a combination of Cyprus’ volcanic soil and the region’s winemaking traditions. The wine features deep notes of honey, raisins, walnuts, figs, carob, cinnamon, coffee, and caramel, making it a unique sensory experience.
Christakis Nicolaou, the community leader of Zoopigi village, where the Commandaria Museum is located, credits the island’s soil for these rich flavors.
The wine is crafted using indigenous Mavro (dark) and Xynisteri (white) grapes. After harvesting, the grapes are left in the sun for up to 12 days to develop their natural sweetness. They are then aged in oak barrels for at least two years, following strict European Union regulations. Only 14 villages on the Troodos mountain range are permitted to produce authentic Commandaria under its protected designation of origin (PDO).
Challenges in the Global Market
Despite its unique history and high quality, Commandaria remains a niche product in the global wine market. Annual production hovers around 200,000 bottles due to declining demand. One major setback was the loss of approximately 800,000 Russian tourists—previously key consumers—due to sanctions following Russia’s invasion of Ukraine.
Efforts to expand into China saw initial success but faltered when producers couldn’t meet the high demand.
Wine expert Demetri Walters, a Master of Wines, believes a lack of marketing has been the biggest obstacle. He notes that even the island’s largest producer, KEO, has been slow to recognize the potential of Commandaria, especially its older vintages.
"Everyone who tastes it for the first time is amazed by its complexity," Walters said, adding that while sweet wines have been out of fashion, there is a growing market for Commandaria in the UK.
Small Wineries Leading the Commandaria Wine Revival
While large-scale global success remains elusive, small wineries are finding a steady audience. Revecca Winery, located in Ayios Mamas, has seen an increase in sales since opening in 2015. Their Commandaria even won the top prize at Cyprus’ national wine competition last year.
Winery curator Nikolas Christodoulides is focused on producing bespoke varieties tailored to customer preferences. "Our goal is quality over quantity," he said. One Israeli couple even flies to Cyprus regularly just to restock their personal supply.
Some wineries, like Karseras in Doros village, specialize in a darker, sweeter version made exclusively from Mavro grapes. The winery produces around 40 tons annually and has noticed an increase in local consumption, though not enough to offset the loss of the Russian market.
A Path Forward
Despite the challenges, producers remain hopeful. Christodoulides believes that small wineries will play a key role in restoring Commandaria’s reputation. "We must first win over the domestic market and maintain quality before making a collective push internationally," he said.
With a rich legacy, unique flavors, and passionate winemakers, Commandaria may finally be on the verge of reclaiming its place as one of the world’s most treasured wines.
